🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. But, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest place securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.